(See photos in the GALLERY)
An early start with Golden Boy enabled us to make good progress around the M25 and on to the M3, arriving in Salisbury just before 11.00. Most of us made our way to the Cathedral café for restorative coffee and perhaps a smidgen of cake, plus the essential loos.
The Cathedral is stunning! As ever, I wonder at how these magnificent buildings are built. No hard hats, health and safety, risk assessments etc. incredible arches, stunning pillars and columns, beautiful windows, intricate woodwork, exquisitely painted ceilings and walls.
We were able to join a guided group tour, which is always a good idea as far as I am concerned.
The fourteenth Century Medieval Clock is probably the most ancient piece of real machinery in existence in original condition and still working. Unfortunately, we just missed the 11.00 chime!
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The very modern font is like a mirror… but do not put your camera down on it, because it isn’t! |
| There is an enormous Cope Chest, still used to store copes. The lid is so heavy it takes three people to lift it. |  |
The cathedral’s foundations are not very deep, but there is a huge amount of gravel keeping it steady. We were shown how a dip stick to check the level of water underneath the Cathedral, in case of flooding.
Without our guide we would probably have missed some of the pieces of artwork placed around the cathedral, in a variety of nooks and crannies. I was particularly taken with the Antony Gormley figure titled GRIP (Net), carefully watching over the chapel from high up.
We went in search of Magna Carta in the Chapter House. How could such a titchy little thing with appalling handwriting be of so much importance? We were intrigued by the cushions in the Chapter House… guess which ones were embroidered by left-handers.
After our visit to the Cathedral we went in search of lunch and found a most agreeable hostelry perched on the River Avon, The Bishop’s Mill, where we enjoyed a delicious repast and a welcome ale.
There followed opportunities to further investigate the town, enjoying the sunshine.
Some of our party visited Arundells, the home of Ted Heath, and the National Trust’s Mompesson House; others simply enjoyed wandering around the Cathedral Close. The Fudge Shop just outside the entrance was a popular visit!
Our journey homewards passed by swiftly and our happy band of travellers were back in Hertford before 8:00. I think I need to revisit Salisbury and do the Tower Tour. Does anyone want to join me?
Arundells by Mary Deeks (See photos in the GALLERY)
This is the only property that Ted Heath ever actually owned and has been left just as it was when he died.
The house is now run by a charitable trust as requested by him because he wanted his vast art collection to be enjoyed by everyone. There are also gifts that he received during his career and many personal items, including the piano.
The Tower Tour by Mary Oldham (See Tower Tour photos)
I am a Salisbury girl but had never been up the tower before. I was following in my Dad’s footsteps; as a schoolboy he was a fire watcher in the tower at the beginning of WW2.
Elaine and I joined the small group from all over the world who met the volunteer guide by the west door. We were able to store our bags at the bottom so were hands free to cling on to the walls as we went. At the risk of sounding like a KGB operative there are 332 steps up to the base of the spire in 5 stages, reaching a height of 68 metres above the ground.
The first two were fairly standard enclosed stone spiral staircases. On level one we were treated to our first views of the ancient roof spaces and to a fabulous view through the nave from one end of the cathedral to the other. We also had a close up view of the stain glass windows next to us, some of which contained 13C glass.
The second stage revealed more beautiful wooden roof structures including Tudor repairs to the roof space, quite a few of the original 13C oak beams remain. We walked along a boardwalk in the roof into the tower space. Here we could see the clock workings and wires to the bells as well as several iron supports put in through the ages to improve tower stability. Sir Christopher Wren who lived locally was involved with some of the improvements.
A more challenging open wooden spiral staircase lead us up to the next level where we had a closer view of the supporting structures. The stonework was still quite ornate as in the past it was visible from ground level. There are planked floors dividing each section now.
Up a more narrow stone staircase and we were next to the bells which give a small peal every 15 minutes and proper dongs on each hour.
The final spiral staircase was another open wooden one to the base of the spire. At that point there was an almost uninterrupted view up inside the roof towards the top. The pulley wheel which enabled the heavy stones to be lifted up was there too. Only workers and an occasional guest are allowed to climb further. This would mean navigating 10 long almost vertical ladders, then an exit to the outside and up more metal exterior ladders to the platform at the top - so not for everyone.
There were 4 small doors on each side - NESW. We were allowed through 3 of the doors onto the narrow stone balconies where we enjoyed fabulous views across the close, Salisbury city, Old Sarum (from the N window) and beyond. Thank goodness it wasn’t windy as apparently the spire is designed to move about 8 inches when the wind is high, I don’t think I would enjoy the floor moving! Peregrine falcons nest near the south door and although they have now flown visitors are not allowed to disturb the area.
To leave the tour all we had to do was navigate our way down via the same route. It was a real treat, a bit of a workout, sometimes challenging and always interesting. If you fancy a tower tour make sure to book it in advance as numbers are very limited.
Salisbury Cathedral Tower Tour (another account)
We were with a small group of visitors from all around the world, for a behind-the-scenes guided tour of the tower - 330 steps winding up to the base of the spire.
Our knowledgeable guide took us up the first of several steep and tight circular staircases to a balcony overlooking the length of the nave, with views of the magnificent vaulted ceiling. After the cathedral was completed in 1258 the tower and spire were added in the 1300s – the guide pointed out where the huge supporting piers had bowed from the additional weight of the tower, but we were slightly reassured that this had happened centuries before and was unlikely to reoccur on our visit.
A worn stone staircase took us above the ceiling of the nave, to a walkway filled with oak beams which had been renovated and strengthened through the years – a wonderful smell of the ancient English and Irish oak beams as we walked towards the tower.
Up we went, stopping to see the mechanism which allowed the cathedral bells above us to ring quarterly and on the hour. A very narrow wooden circular staircase took us to where we could see incredible medieval iron work which had been used in conjunction with masonry. In more ‘recent’ times, Christopher Wren’s assessment in 1668 declared it was the best he had ever seen. The metalwork in the tower has continued to be assessed and strengthened. We continued upwards on an ever-narrowing stone staircase to the floor housing the cathedral bells.
At a height of 69 metres we arrived at the base of the octagonal spire which was illuminated for us so that we could see right up inside the breathtaking height of the tallest spire in the UK – a network of wooden beams with a series of access ladders which went right to the very top, a height of 123 metres above ground. Thankfully we weren’t expected to climb the ladders.
At the base of the spire was a large wooden medieval windlass, a wheel used by the builders to pull up all the materials they needed from the ground.
Finally we stepped out through small wooden doors onto the narrow stone ledges (all very safe) for incredible vertigo-inducing views of Salisbury and the surrounding Wiltshire countryside. We could take in the view from three sides, the fourth side has been commandeered by the resident nesting peregrine falcons. The guide pointed out the site of the previous Salisbury cathedral on the distant hill at Old Sarum.
Our 2 hour tour was nearly over and we reluctantly retraced our steps down the winding staircases, hearing a farewell strike of the cathedral bells as we made our way down. A fascinating tour, highly recommended.